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My bone marrow with parsley salad (£8) was uncannily similar to Fergus Henderson’s famous dish from St John restaurant: a meaty marrow-bone with toast, plus parsley and caper salad. It wasn’t as good as Henderson’s: the salad was slightly too oily to cut the marrow’s richness. So instead, I cut the richness by drinking deeply of a pleasing Rioja Reserva Bodegas Navajas 2005 (£35).
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