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Apart from the joyous classics that require it (can you imagine never eating gratin dauphinoise again?), a slosh of cream has such power to turn the ordinary into the special that it should still be a valued ingredient, albeit not an everyday one. Once I add a couple of tablespoons, along with a splash of vermouth (for fish) or marsala (for chicken) to the cooking juices in my frying-pan I have a luxurious puddle of sauce that’s pretty uplifting on a rainy Wednesday night.
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