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Then the journey became genuinely terrifying. We got to an Akha tribe village, and the only way on was down the river â?“ through white-water rapids. We had no boats. No helmets. No life-jackets. The adults were to stand on bamboo rafts â?“ which the locals were binding together on the beach in front of us â?“ and steer through boulders using bamboo rods. Rucksacks would be tied to a bamboo tripod; Lyall and I could hold on too.
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