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Sorry, I ran out of credit maximized manhood Bavette steak ($35), a tasty cut of beef more common in France than the U.S., certainly deserves more airtime 창?혬 but should have gotten more pan time as well. The medium-rare order came nearly as raw as the tartare. Grilled chicken ($29) gets gussied up with Mediterranean souvenirs, but the decorative stripes of sumac-spiked yogurt and charred eggplant puree can창?혲t mask its soggy skin or the bed of undercooked lentil salad that crunches like little pebbles. Achingly tender local halibut ($32) amid a mini garden of roasted vegetables reminds diners that, sometimes, there창?혲s no place like home.
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